Automating makes the process less prone to error and faster if great lengths of a trim are needed. Using the trim as the cast on edge for a garment: Knit rows RC 5, 6 , hang ladder loops on still empty needles, knit across all needle, continue with garment. A look at the structure on the purl side: Cast on and knit a few rows, set knob to KCII, knit one row. Push in both tuck buttons, and knit desired number of rows. Cast on desired number of stitches, knit base rows. Set change knob to KCII , knit one row.
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Push in both tuck buttons, knit in pattern for desired number of rows. On the purl side this creates structures that emulate crocheted shells. My first attempts at trying to knit anything like this were in thin yarn, and I had enough issues to give up for the moment. Things worked out much better when I switched to a sport weight yarn that seemed to like knitting at T 10 for stocking stitch.
I chose to wrap X 5, which requires 10 rows of knitting, making the row counter usable to track rows in easy increments.
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I found a single tooth from a claw weight on pair of stitches doing all the knitting helpful. Variations can include the number of needles used for knit stitches or ladders width created from NOOW, yarn choices, etc. The function of the card remains the same when cam buttons are engaged, regardless of whether knitting single or double bed. Another Brother feature is that the needle tape to help with markings for stitch counts, pattern repeats, etc.
This can cause some confusion when translating patterns from other makers that rely on needle position numbers only for their directions. I often use punchcard designs on my electronic machines after isolating the repeat, most often for the sake of speed and convenience.
Swapping out the needle tape for the electronic with one for a punchcard machine makes identifying and placing repeats easier. In Brother punchcard machines tapes the heavy solid line, followed by a thin line on alternate sides, reflect each 24 stitch repeat.
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Using the markings on needle tape is pointless if tape is not properly centered. As retainer bar begins to loosen a bit from wear, tape may start shifting position, and cello may be needed to anchor it in place. Marking colors have varied over the years. Punching cards is enough work so that it is worthwhile to get as many functions or fabrics out of each card as possible.
Software makes it easy to check for repeat tiling, or simply copy card with black paper behind it, cut it up and cello together to sort out needle placement. I chart mostly in Excel, old fashioned colored pencils and graph paper work just fine if any software is unavailable. Use waste yarn, ravel cord, and ribber comb with weights through waste yarn.
For the month of June, on Ravelry, a group of us are going to look at crochet like stitches produced on the knitting machine. This will be an evolving and growing post series as I have time to gather and share information.
The bound off edge is rehung and worked further. Below I have used an acrylic yarn that tests the 4. To keep the number of stitches constant for straight edge on both sides of piece, the loop at the end gets its own needle. A sample created picking up rear loop only, without turning the work over at any time. View of side 1 and loop consistently worked. Note the slight bias in fabric, due to its being worked always in the same direction.
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Such trims may be used for no roll edges anywhere on a garment. The number of stitches may be decreased following shaping ie in necklines. The look as always varies considerably with fiber used and its bulk. Other variations and tips:.
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In sampling I tend to use any yarn at hand. Quality of material directly relates however, to quality of results. All samples were made with purl side facing, but depending on preference and end use, the fabric could be returned to machine with knit side facing as well. It is helpful to have a neat selvedge. If the edge includes increases or decreases making them fully fashioned with provide one. Stitches are picked up on the finished knit a full stitch away from edge. I tend to keep my yarn continuous rather than binding off with separate threads.
Adjust loop size prior to knitting the next row. Hang it on the first stitch on that side, or on the adjacent empty needle if you find you are a single stitch short machine knitting magic. Bring needles out to hold, making certain each needle has a stitch on it. My first encounter using a ribber cast on comb for open edge single bed knitting was in using the Passap machine. I like using ribber cast on combs when knitting single bed to distribute weight evenly across pieces if needed.
A second comb may be inserted as knitting grows.
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Weights may then be removed and moved up, and so on. Unevenly distributing weight causes elongated stitches in those areas, and makes shaped knitting unpredictable unless the ratio of weight to width of knitting is maintained. Here the topic is using the ribber comb in single bed open cast on and hanging hems. Remove wire from comb. Needles and latches will need to travel easily under the wire when the first knit row takes place. The knit carriage will not clear the comb properly because of the location of its brushes, etc. Needles are centered between the teeth, the teeth themselves line up with gate pegs.
The comb needs to be manually held in place, since there is no opposing bed in use to help balance it. The latter would ease the process in wider pieces of knit. To achieve joining hems in this manner with the ribber in place, though possible on both beds, it is quickest to cast on the back bed Passap or on the knit bed Brother, etc. Hold the comb high enough to take the lock or carriage across.
In Japanese kms drop the ribber, switch sinker plates, and continue to knit on the main bed. For wider or narrower fabrics the number of stitches for the hems may need to be recalculated, depending on whether a series of simple tension adjustments can solve the problem. Fiber content, yarn weight, even color can affect results, so always test a swatch. It is possible to knit tubular hems using the ribber, but here the discussion is for single bed only. Hems at the beginning: Following step 1 below: Knit the number of rows required for the inside of the hem.
Tighten tension by one to original stockinette tension, and proceed as indicated in steps 2 and 3 below. Illustrations are from Brother techniques Book, pp. Cast on an odd number of stitches and knit several rows of waste knitting followed by 1 row knit with ravel cord. All of the educators contributed their ideas when it came time to write the pattern for the Marco Polo Hats.
That summer, at Camp Tuckanitslip, we held a contest for the best hats and were delighted that so many of our customers took us up on the offer and entered the contest. I have just posted the pattern on the Free Stuff page of my web site. You can access that page by clicking on the link you were sent when you registered for my newsletter. It is never too early to start knitting for holiday gifting and hopefully this pattern will give some of you the confidence to try something new.
The pattern offers two alternatives to the short rowed earflaps and you could, of course, eliminate the flaps altogether or add bodacious ruffles like the version worn by Tara, the little girl in the photo. Cuff-to-Cuff and later Saddle Shoulders. As time marches on, she is now the mother of two beautiful little children herself! The brim can be smaller than our versions and you can embellish it or not. The ties can be replaced with wider, scarf-like pieces and the yarns you choose can be as wild and crazy or as subdued as you choose. Have fun and express your true inner self!
This buttonhole band has been around forever and is still a winner! The method of attaching the band can be applied to any sandwich band — plain, picot, patterned. The chained effect is on the inside of the garment if you follow my directions and a sort of back-stitched effect shows on the knit side, just as they would appear if the band had been applied on a linking machine. The width of the band is up to you, but I recommend always including a technique that will produce a sharp crease on the fold. In this video, I used two turns with the garter bar, but you might do as well with one row on size 10 or a row of picots.
If you have a double bed machine, you can knit the band in rib, ending it with some circular rows to sandwich the fabric between. When applying a band like this to cut-and-sew necklines, you should serge or zigzag the cut neckline edge to make sure nothing drops down and runs later.
That is, a couple of rows of knitting or, as I did, two stitches from the edge. Otherwise, the band is barely attached to the garment and tends to turn up or down. I would never attach a band like this to live stitches with no bulk inside the band or it looks flimsy. Take my word for it ….. I know from experience! When working a neckband with this method, you should be able to join one shoulder seam first and apply the band to the entire neckline.
With V-necks, you might need to apply the band in two pieces that overlap the center front. There is a free Tips and Techniques Bands That Bind on my web site that goes into a bit more detail and I recommend that you download it to help you the first few times. Remember that the beginning and ending buttonholes are usually spaced just a few stitches from either end of the fabric, but that the remaining buttonholes will have larger spaces between them.
There are always more spaces to account for than buttonholes.
There are several magic formula calculators on line that are very helpful in spacing out the buttonholes. I have used this method of attaching bands to front, lower and neckline edges and I have also used it to add trim and to finish hand woven fabric. Check out the Facebook page and follow along: PS — I filmed this video at the end of raspberry season when I had some free time — apologies for the arm scratches!
No matter how hard you try to keep it loose, the latch tool cast on is often too tight to be practical. I came up with a simple solution that enables you to make the edge as loose and stretchy as you want by working around a gauge. In this video, I used a 4 hand knitting needle, but you can use a larger needle or a dowel instead.
Although it is tempting to make the chaining really loose, try not to go overboard with your new-found power! Once I produced a better cast on edge, I realized that I could also use the same technique to open up the rows of decorative chaining I work on the knit side of the fabric. You can work decorative chaining with different colors and textures and you can work several rows together at the lower edge to produce a nice band.
Think about picking up and rehanging a row of decorative chaining across the needles to work more elaborate trims or effects after the basic fabric is complete. You can also work crochet trims through them. Hope to see some of you there! Last week I got an email from a Russian machine knitter named Elena Luneva, asking if I would take a look at her You Tube videos and share them here on the blog.
I think they are terrific! In the first class, Principles of Knitting Terry Clot h, Elena uses a ribber comb to work a hand-manipulated, purl-side looped fabric on a single bed. My kind of fun! Thanks for sharing, Elena! The collar on the sweater I featured in my last two blogs is actually more of a turned or rolled collar. A true shapedshawlcollar requires short row shaping so I have included some generic directions in this posting. Machine Knitting Resource Book. Hand Knits by Machine: Kindle Edition File Size: Amazon Media EU S.
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What other items do customers buy after viewing this item? Share your thoughts with other customers. Write a customer review. Showing of 1 reviews. Top Reviews Most recent Top Reviews. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. What machine knitter needs to be told how to cast on? Not many, I think! Then the book says to choose a pattern of your choice. Stick with the web, folks and don't waste your money on this rubbish.